Hello!

I’m new here and to flashlights in general, Recently bought a V11R and wasn’t happy with its runtime so I decided to take it apart and mess with it and here are my findings.

This driver uses 2 boost converters CFC6J is SD3303 3.2v out to the LED and E50D is CE8301 5v out to 316BCG the hall sensor.
Efficiency is slightly less than 50% running on a AA battery, about 40mins on full brightness. that’s it for now, replaced it with ZL SC5c II, much better runtime and a bit brighter.

When I first got into flashlights almost a year ago, I discovered the Jetbeam Jet 1-MK. So far, I’ve ordered about 10 of them this year and given many away. Unfortunately, the vendor also sends cheap AA Eco-Sensa batteries with them and I made the mistake of passing them on with the flashlights. My mother recently sent her first one back to me after a leaky battery corroded a decent part (20% ?) of the Jetbeam’s tube.

Is there any reasonable way to fix this or am I starting to collect parts at this point? The head still works as I switched it out with mine successfully.

For the time being, she has her new backup Jet 1-MK but if I can fix this one, I’d like to try it. So far, I’ve used Q-tips with alcohol with no luck. I can’t see any corrosion on the springs or below it, just on the tube itself in one area.

I’d appreciate any guidance, especially from those who’ve brought them back from the dead.

Thanks!

Joe

Looks like Lumintop is releasing two new products in the AA/14500 category.

So far they are showing the “Prince Mini” in only a stainless steel version, looks pretty identical to the 18650 Prince, but smaller. No mention of mode memory. 3 modes – 500/72/12 lumens. 95M max throw. Size 90×18.6 mm. Flannel Bag?
I see it available online at $40. I think I’ll wait for brass or copper.

The “Tool AA” looks pretty similar to the AAA tool, but larger. Still has the tail switch or magnetic-cap-twisty operation. Love the reversible clip.
3 Modes – 550/95/8 lumens. 95M max throw. Size with switch: 91.6×18.5mm.
Can’t find a place to buy it yet, but I know what everybody is getting for holiday this year.

Still waiting for a decent 10440 light that isn’t Peak LED.

REVIEW MANKER E03H XPL

PRESENTATION

The Manker E03H comes very well protected inside a colored satin box with a plastic window that allows us to see the flashlight. Inside the box the contents comes in a protective blister. In the box we can see the engravings, data of the mark and the model. The presentation is quite correct.

Once the wrapping is opened, we find complete accessories. A good lanyard, a clip, diffusers specific to this model in red, green and white, O'ring, instruction manual and a headband. Good quality in general.

The headband was incorporated in the E02 in a second moment, with the denomination E02H, and also has been used, varying the support of the flashlight in this model. Being very portable light, manker has thought of making a headband according to the characteristics of flashlight and has omitted the part of the tape that usually carry other models above the head, also using a much narrower tape. This makes the tape very portable too and quick to use, but we can not wait for the touch and the docking of the headband that incorporates the upper tape. One tip I will give to anyone who uses it is to try not to over-adjust it, which is what is tended in the first minutes, because it will end up bothering you. If we use it with little pressure the tape is well held, and does not disturb.

CONSTRUCTION

The flashlight is elegant, not as much as the EO2H, but it is, especially if we remove the diffuser and put the clip. It is also very compact. This model is only black anodized and differs from its small sister mainly in the thickness of the tube to accommodate the battery AA and in the slides of the diffusers. The body includes a fine knurling quite effective. The tail has trapezoid forms that make it much easier to unscrew it in order to install the battery. Of course just like his little sister includes a powerful magnet, and the head has dissipating fins and engraved with the serial number and model that also make a decorative function.

The diffusers are hard plastic and once placed they will not fall. It is not easy to remove them (that is why they are not going to be lost), and are fastened and moved through lanes in the head of the flashlight, also having tabs to facilitate the process. The diffusers move correctly but offer resistance. It is convenient to move them from your midline. As for the magnet is very powerful and allows the location of the flashlight in almost any position.

The threads are of good quality and come clean and greased. The XPL LED is well located centered on an OP reflector after the anti-reflective lens. At the top we find the gummy button millimetrically located in line with the shape of the head. His touch seems to me perfect for this type of flashlight. It is surrounded by a stainless steel protector.

Apart from sharing aesthetics with the E02, there are parts that without disassembling seem to be identical, so we have to assume that they are common parts, pushbutton, pushbutton protector, bezel, lens, reflector, are some of them.

SIZE AND WEIHGT

As expected, we are facing one of the front flashlight of smaller size and weight. Few more L flashlights will find this size, weight and similar features combining power and runtime. If we find them, they will be at higher prices. In the box puts that it weighs 80 gr, but this is the weight in my scale whit AA battery. Very good. 

As for size is shown compared to her small sisters and other models to have a clear reference.

USER INTERFACE.

The flashlight has the usual manker UI in recent times and can be clearly seen in the scheme that the brand offers.

OFF -> PRESS-> Moonlight -> Press->Cycle (low -> Mi -> Hi -> Mi -> Low)

OFF-> Long Press-> Last Mode -> Press -> Cycle

Off or On -> Double Press -> Especial Modes (Turbo -> Strobe -> SOS -> Beacom).

lock/unlock -> One press -> 2 press -> 3 Press

This model has the engineer mode in which we can configure the ML mode as we want. Ideas of what should be a ML there are for all people, so, whit this model we can get the ML Mode that we want.

POWER, RUNTIME, Y REGULATION

My unit for whatever reason and although it presents data very equivalent to the officers, has arrived with a turbo mode less powerful than it should. Beyond this the modes are very well distributed, I think better than in the E02 to have a way more. It is inevitable not to start comparing her with her little sister E02. In fact one aspect that can make us choose the E03 in front of the E02 is its high mode that doubles to the E02 offering thanks to the AA battery a very good runtime with a temperature that is not a problem.

As for the runtime, the data are very similar to those obtained by the brand and I think they are quite good. Being a model thought to use among other things, with a tape on the head, as it is regulated its power when used only with Nimh, the temperature is not a problem at any time.

PROJECTION

Due to the type of model it is, I thought that the best images of your projection would be against the wall on a porta angles, and in the hallway of the garage that we remember has an approximate measures of 96 meters long, by 6 wide. I have used other different fronts, and in the most powerful I have used the most similar mode, so that the projection is appreciated in the most correct way possible.

We will start with the pictures on the wall.

Then the images in garage.

Pictures whit Diffusor.

CONCLUSION

The E02 has been a success on the part of Manker. Can we say the same of E03 ?. A priori I expected something similar to E02, a little bigger and with better performance. I think what Manker has done is just that. So the question could be E02H or E03H?

They are two models that have specific characteristics, under size and weight, correct performance, good regulation, and in a way are multifunction flashlights. Neither is the flashlight in L more comfortable to wear in the head many hours, nor is the best model to carry it as EDC in a pocket, but without being the best, they do many different things well at the same time.You can carry them in a pocket comfortably, put them on the hood of the car using your magnet, or on your tape to see the screws you're removing, or leave it on a table focusing where you want ...... This is what we have than to be clear. So we must think that we value more.

CASE 1: If you want to use it as EDC, you want the best benefits, but above all it is lighter (and more beautiful), The E02H.

CASE 2: If you prefer more runtime and a high mode much more powerful (because the turbo is also more powerful, but lasts few minutes) your flashlight is the E03. If you also use the diffusers, with more reason.

Assumption 3: If you are an alcoholic flash, buy both.  

Trying to find info on the DQG “Slim“AA. I found the light for sale but it is a bit confusing reading about batteries and extension tubes. It appears it requires an extra tube for AA.
Thanks.

I have been looking for a 2xaa flashlight for a while now. I like aa flashlights because they are easy to find when you need them. I have quite a bit of alkalines just in case but only use rechargeable nimh aa. Now I was looking for something that took 2xaa batteries because it should give better runtimes. I used to have a surefire that was really great until Sandy hit us in NJ. I ended up not being able to find the cr123 batteries and realized then that the flashlight is only great if l can find batteries for it. Now I realize you can buy extra cr123 batteries so this is just how I feel. AA flashlights have been my favorite since.

I have a Thrunite archer 2a v3 nw that is a really great flashlight and probably my favorite. The problem is I wanted to buy extras for emergency and it cost $29.99. So I’m thinking that the Sofirn sf13 will be a good flashlight for a backup, but I haven’t seen much talk about it. I know that Sofirn flashlights are priced well and they seem to be updating them as well. So I have one on the way and will let everyone know what I think of it. These are the things I wanted for an emergency flashlight.
Easy to find aa batteries
Decent runtimes
200-300+ lumens
Simple UI, so anybody can use it in case of emergency 
Reliable
$20 or under

Sofirn SF13-Aliexpress $9.65

Btw If anyone has another option that is similar please let me know.
Anthony

I responded to the Z2 thread couple years ago. So now i have 3 of these. Even the new one is crazy.
I sent one back and never heard anything about it. These folks have been great and i love their stuff, especially the Z2.
Is anyone here fixing these?

Well, digging the AliExpress stores as I always do, I found the Sofirn SP10B (AA / 14500), a reformulated version of the SP10A.
Does anyone have it?

I’m still waiting for 2xSF14 and 1xSP10A, but I guess I’ll jump on the SP10B
ML > L > M + High (double click) + Strobe (triple click) + Lock-out (4 clicks)

Looks interesting… msrp ~$33

14500 XPL (NW available), 800 lumen

full specs

http://www.lumintop.com/edc05.html

…I can’t seem to find a good source for them anymore. I’ve got 4 or 5 of them that I’ve had for several years now and I want to recommend them to others, but it looks like there are a lot of low quality clones out there now.
Do I need to give up looking or is there a current AA size torch that is as good or better than the old SK68? Single mode is preferred. Thanks

Hello,
My name is Eryk. I am writing reviews in Polish.
Reviews I translate – google translator

Original review:
http://www.torch.pl/forum/index.php/topic,63197.0.html

The manufacturer’s test flashlight was: http://www.xtar.cc/products_detail/productId=176.html

Model WK007 is a “ZOOM” torch, does this torch make sense?

The flashlight is supplied in a blister.

In packaging:
- a flashlight
- user manual
- spare oring
- lanyard for wrist

XTAR WK007 is a model that can be powered from 1 * AA or 1 * 14500. Visually the project looks pretty good, also in terms of performance there is no reason to complain

WK007, the design of the ZOOM flashlight from the perspective of XTAR, is there any chance of success? We have a lot of sellers here and ignorant buyers “focus regulation”. LED is XP-G3, cold with blue / violet color – disgusting (especially visible on the wall, on the grass, etc. – less)

We can spread the head and have “super reach”

Without the slightest problems we can unscrew the crown and get to the optics and fast

I decided to make a small modification, I took a TIR type optics, which is intended, for example, to modify Convoy S2 + flashlights, and put it in the XTAR. It is loosely true, but I did it only with curiosity as it will shine

With TIR optics it does not look so attractive anymore

On the original speed, with the “range” setting. It is not better, but on the contrary

Where the driver and diode are mounted, the head is ribbed, for better heat transfer, the center tube is glued, so it is not removed, covered with a delicate, but perceptible finger under the finger

The “forward” button, if the flashlight is off, changes the mode in half-clicks, and in the selected mode we make a full click – ie press the button “to the end”. The button itself works with great resistance, here it is not bad

Striped cover + strange pattern, also found a hole to attach the wrist lanyard

Threads without anodizing, no grease, good quality

Like a spring, hard enough, gold plated

Control is very easy, as we change modes I discussed when discussing switch, I will talk only about modes.
The modes are slow, half-click, high, mid, and so on, but if you want to go through the modes quickly, the strobe modes will turn on and we do not want to.
In my opinion, flash modes should be called, for example, three quick clicks, and sometimes they can turn on.

Producer gives 500 lm for High, with 14500 cell it is the most achievable, also looks good with Eneloop AA 2000mAh performance.

Graph for XTAR WK007 powered by 1 * Eneloop, an hour of quite a lot of light – is good, just bad for that performance the manufacturer used in the ZOOM flashlight

On the other hand, for 14500 cells, about 6 to 7 minutes it drops to 65%, stays up to about 20 minutes, and then slows down to about 60 minutes.

The WK007 without a cell is about 50 grams, it’s a lot for the torch powered by 1 * AA / 14500

WK007 on the background of Sanyo NCR18650GA and JETBeam JET-1 MK

And here in the “zoom”

JETBeam JET-1 MK has joined the JET-E20R

Field shooting, camera settings ISO-200, f / 2, 2s, white balance – Fluorescent H

XTAR WK007 – 14500

XTAR WK007 – AA

JETBeam JET-1 MK – 14500

JETBeam JET-1 MK – AA

XTAR WK007 – 14500

XTAR WK007 – AA

JETBeam JET-1 MK – 14500

JETBeam JET-1 MK – AA

XTAR WK007 MOD (TIR optics) – 14500

Full size photos:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1cL6NSPt8IR6KLy0ovEVou-EVI6dkBlHG...

A few words of summary.
I will start with words – not worth it. There are not many ZOOM flashlights on the market, and the WK007 is definitely not worth it. Poor quality, ZOOM – neither the range nor usable light distribution.
Looking at the quality of work, here is not bad, XTAR products are rather well known, this model looks to me more to see what the sales will look like, branded flashlight against the huge amount of offered no-name products.
For those who like DIY – if you fall into the hands of the WK007, I recommend to replace the original optics, such as TIR optics or to find a headlight + find a quick, I used the Astrolux S41S flashlight.
No modification – I would not recommend (even looking at the price, it is some times too high).

Regards
Eryk

hey.
i got this lihgt about 2 weeks ago from gearbest and used it with eneloop.
then i finely got my efest IMR 14500 purple in the mail and put it in to try it.
sadly it wasnt as i want it to be, its just as bright as with the eneloop

any idea? thanks

So what is the best single AA powered flashlight for 2017/18 ? Best zoomer is Xtar's 007 but has a bluish hue beam. Worst is any Coast Flashlight because they are exspensive and all have purplish hue beams.

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I’m very new to BLF, originally coming to look for a camping headlamp. In the process I also decided I wanted a small non-right angle light for home and the car that could be powered by AA batteries. (I find that AA batteries aren’t much bigger than AAA but offer a lot more capacity).

Sofirn kindly reached out to me asking if I’d review one of their newer models: the SP10a or the SF14.
At a glance, they look really similar, but the main difference is that the SF10a has a side switch, while the SF14 has a tail switch. A clicky tail switch sounded a lot more appealing to me, especially since the side switch of the 10a had a momentary delay. The downside is a tiny bit longer length.

Image of the flashlight at home:
https://imgur.com/a/7srFH
Amazon (non-affiliate) link: https://www.amazon.com/Sofirn-Flashlight-Keychain-waterproof-Excluded/dp...

Initial impressions

The light has a very sturdy, well made feeling. It comes with a lanyard kit, a clip, and 2 spare O-rings, indicating that it is IPX8 waterproof. The rear switch gives a satisfying click with just the right amount of pressure. A single AA battery (alkaline, I know, I know), slid nicely into the body without much play.

Operation

This is a pretty simple light – turning cycle through off, low, off medium, off, and high by clicking it with a full press click within a second or so of the last click. There is no memory, which means you’ll always end up in mode+1 when you turn it back on when clicking quickly, or it resets to low after some amount of time (probably 30 seconds of no clicking or so, I’m not sure of the exact amount)

It does have an interesting half-press mode though where you can cycle through the modes without turning it off. This works just fine, but doesn’t give the best tactile feedback while doing so. As a flashlight beginner I wasn’t familiar with this type of operation, but it does work pretty well.

Pros:
- Nice clean stepping modes. With a AA it does 3 fairly convenient modes: 3, 33, and 230 lumens. With a 14500 you are at 5, 110, and 600.
- Build quality feels really nice.
- Beam overall gives a medium hotspot with a bit of flooding around it. For a point & shoot style light I actually like this amount of throwy-ness.
- XP-G2 isn’t the most modern emitter, but is still very good. Apparently the XP-G3 isn’t as popular because it can give off some odd tints.
- Waterproofing is nice for this price
- Price is affordable: listed for around $15 on amazon right now

Cons

- As mentioned before, the lack of memory can be frustrating. However, for basic uses, this simplicity might be good.
- Medium mode on a 14500 seems a bit tough on battery life (110 lumen for 5 hours). I probably would have preferred something in the 30-50 range for most uses and longer battery life.
- Single AA battery flashlights have tremendous competition of course! I’d like to put this side by side with more lights. My guess is it’s not the smallest, but also not the biggest model either. It’s just a bit smaller than my H03 which is kind surprising since the H03 is an 18650 light.
- Packaging is kind of simple if you want to give this as a gift

Competitors

I’ll compare this to the lumintop tool AA which is a very common light around here:

Max lumens: Sofirn SF14 600 vs Lumintop 550
Lowest (not quite candle) mode: SF wins with 3-5 lumens (~100hrs) vs. 5-7 (~30-40hrs) to keep power down
Weight (no battery): 39g vs. 25g – Lumintop wins this one by 14g or about half an ounce
Length: 96mm vs Lumintop 80-90mm. Pretty similar.

Overall, I consider this a nice little 1xAA light. I’d say it’s worth the $10-$15 for a simple light. This would be a great light to give to someone that’s not a total flashlight/electronics nut and needs simple operation. (I think press and hold / double clicks / etc on flashlights can be a bit much for most people). I’d recommend this light, and will report back after a few months of usage to see how it holds up. Looking across other 1xAA’s the 600 lumen mark is actually one of the best out there.

After a week or so of use I still love clicking the tail cap of this light and love how much brightness I can get out of a simple AA.

I'd been reading up about more flashlights here (mostly budget-level ones), and since I don't have a working AA/14500 flashlight yet (actually I had an UltraFire UK68, but it worked on AA the first time I got it, but subsequently it doesn't work with AA, it now only works on 14500), I got the UTorch UT01 when it was on flash sale sometime back. The lights just arrived (I got 2pcs - CW and  NW).

Now, upon checking the UT01 NW, the tailcap spring PCB fell off (is it supposed to be glued?), but apart from that, it seems to work.

I then checked the UT01 CW, and it does not turn on -- nothing at all.

Since I have 2 versions, I decided to mix and match the body tube and tailcaps. I find that when I use the tailcap/spring of the UT01 NW on the UT01 CW, then I can get the flashlight to work properly.  So for some reason, the tailcap spring of my UT01 CW does not function (and it's glued on the cap; unlike the one on my UT01 NW which fell off immediately the first time I inserted battery.

What might be the problem?

~~~~~~

Update:

So I decide to test continuity of the tailcap with a multitester, and both seem to be working.... 

But when I screw the tailcap to the body tube (I tested both body tubes, and even flipped them over and tested again), and test for continuity with multimeter, then there's a difference:

Connecting the tail cap (from UT01 NW) to the body tube (any), there is continuity.

Connecting the tail cap (from UT01 CW) to the body tube (any), shows no continuity.

What's wrong with the UT01 CW's tailcap, I can't seem to notice defect. And strangely, the tailcap from the UT01 NW which immediately fell off on first use, it works properly.

I could not find any reviews comparing the size and tint of the Olight S15 vs. Olight S1A. So.............Both have XM-L2 emitters. The S1A is much smaller than the S15. These are my favorite AA/14500 flashlights. Got the S1A for a super low price at the Olight Store black Friday sale (2017) and a free i3e EOS. As you can see the i3e is much smaller than the Jetbeam.

I do not use pocket clips. I put them on the flashlight but 99% I do not use it. The light ends up in a backpack or bag. To be fare I can not say yeh or nay about the clip. The lanyard and steel claw style clip I can give a thumbs up. If I could not afford a more exspensive comparable Thrunite, Olight, Nitecore, Fenix flashlight and wanted a good reliable flashlight I recommend the Sofirn SF14. The before mentioned brands all have more features but cost more money. The SF14 has no decernable PWM. That in and of it self is a big quality feature. Mode memory is also a sign of quality. Machining is also good. Of course the flashlight is super bright when using a 14500 battery. I can not find anything wrong or bad with the flashlight. The only improvement I can offer is a moonlight mode. That would be extra icing on the cake. After all this is a super high quality single AA flashlight that is so much better than the ones that can be found in big box stores. If you want moonlight mode please consider a Sofirn SP10a or SP10b. I think the SF14 is much better than the Fenix LD12 flashlights I owned. The LD12’s were not very bright and had green beam disease. The Nitecore MT1a I owned had a purplish hue beam tint. The Xtar 007 that I was given for review is the best zoomie flashlight on the market but has a very blue beam hue. So……………for much less money you get a very high quality single AA flashlight with good beam quality with the Sofirn SF14. If anyone out in internet land wants more beam shots of the SF14 just please ask.
Tracy Wan from Sofirn just provided me with a discount code for 10% off the price of the SF14 flashlight it is: JPZ4B4KA.
The link is: www.amazon.com/Sofirn-Flashlight-Keychain-waterproof-Excluded/dp/B0756ZC… (link is external)(link is external)
Take a chance on the SF14 because it is a great small flashlight at a terrific price.

Hi i have a QP2A-X with a somewhat greenish tint. I prefer neutral white. Is an emitter swap easy to do? I run the light with a 14500 cell in the 1AA body. Not sure what size the LED MPCB is. Any tips would be great. Thanks.